How to repair a damaged skin barrier? Why does it matter?
A healthy skin barrier is crucial for problem-free skin. An overwhelming body of research shows that skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, and acne are associated with some level of impaired skin barrier function.
The skin barrier is like a shield on the surface of our skin. It is the outermost layer of the skin, also called stratum corneum). It consists of dead skin cells (corneocytes) and “glue” – a matrix of various lipids (oily substances).
Don’t let the ‘dead’ skin cells fool you, the skin barrier is highly functional!
The skin barrier blocks irritants and many harmful substances from entering the skin (and bloodstream) and prevents infections. A robust skin barrier also maintains proper levels of hydration within the skin.
Sufficient hydration levels in the stratum corneum, in turn, ensures the natural exfoliation process (desquamation) is running smoothly.
This keeps our pores naturally clear and our skin glowing!
When the skin barrier is impaired, the skin becomes more susceptible to various skin problems (including acne) because the inflammation in the skin rises.
Dr. Albert Kligman (the co-inventor of Retin A) recognized early on the significance of a robust skin barrier for healthy skin. It also became apparent that the stratum corneum communicates with the living epidermis underneath. This influences the regenerative processes in the deeper layers of the skin.
This was the beginning of corneotherapy: A skincare methodology that aims to maintain a robust skin barrier and boost the skin’s innate immunity.
What does the skin barrier need to function optimally?
Two main components that must be plentiful for the barrier to function properly are skin-identical ingredients and Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF):
- Skin barrier lipids – mainly ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol
- Natural moisturizing factor (NMF), a fluid naturally found within keratinocytes (epidermis cells) that binds water efficiently, keeping proper hydration levels
Ceramides, free fatty acids (mainly linoleic acid), and cholesterol are the main structural lipids of the human stratum corneum. They all get washed off our skin to a degree after we cleanse with a stripping cleanser.
Ceramides are the most abundant of these lipids (around 50%) and are responsible for numerous important functions in the skin.
Ceramides:
- Provide an effective barrier against the loss of water and electrolytes maintaining proper skin hydration
- Are essential for skin barrier function and the skin’s ability to protect itself from pathogens, oxidative stress, and UV radiation
- Are powerful anti-aging agents, maintaining skin elasticity and firmness
Unfortunately, many environmental factors, harsh skincare, age, diet and lifestyle can decrease the level of ceramides in our skin. This can manifest as dryness, visible inflammation, redness, and breakouts.
Reducing products and skincare practices that contribute to excessive washing off of ceramides is a must!
Also, applying ceramides topically can help to restore the skin barrier function, increase skin hydration, and reduce redness and inflammation.
Free fatty acids like linoleic acid and linolenic acid are also very important for skin barrier function. They:
- Help regulate Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
- Act as anti-inflammatory agents (also helping inflamed acne)
- Are emollients providing softening and skin moisturizing benefits
- Provide skin protection and nourishment
- Protect the skin from photo-aging
- Reverse skin sensitivity and aid in the skin wound healing
Cholesterol is the third important element making up the skin’s lipid matrix, supporting the skin barrier function when applied topically.
What about Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)?
The Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) is a crucial part of keeping our skin healthy and naturally well moisturized.
NMF components are highly efficient humectants that attract and bind water from the atmosphere, drawing it into the corneocytes.
This process can occur even at a relative air humidity as low as 40 percent!
The NMF is located within corneocytes and is mainly composed of free amino acids and their derivatives. They include sodium PCA, sodium lactate, urocanic acid (a natural absorber of UV light), inorganic salts, lactic acid and urea. Inorganic salts include the chlorides, phosphates, and citrates of sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium.
Having adequate NMF levels is extremely important for the biochemical and mechanical properties of our skin. The NMF keeps the skin hydrated, promotes skin elasticity and it helps maintain the skin barrier’s properties.
Hydrolytic enzymes enable the process of desquamation (skin’s own continuous exfoliation process) and can only work under sufficient hydration levels (which regulate pH) in the stratum corneum.
Your natural exfoliation process is largely responsile for naturally clear skin!
Insufficient levels of NMF can manifest as dry or even flaking skin.
Daily washing with soap or conventional face cleansers has been shown to remove the NMF (and skin lipids) from the superficial layers of the stratum corneum. Hence, it is very important to have gentle cleansing practices!
Furthermore, over-exfoliating can be even more damaging, and not just due to skin barrier disruption. It also doesn’t allow enough time for corneocytes to mature and accumulate sufficient amounts of NMF.
In addition, aging appears to dramatically reduce the amino acid content in the stratum corneum.
Applying NMF ingredients topically can increase skin’s hydration and prevent skin tightness and dryness.
Is your skin barrier in a chronically dysfunctional state?
If you have been dealing with skin problems for years and nothing seems to work permanently, chances are your skin barrier is not functioning properly.
The signs of barrier dysfunction can include:
- Dry, tight, uncomfortable skin
- Dermatitis and rosacea
- Rapid skin aging
- Persistent, angry acne
- Acne scars are very slow to heal
- Skin feels dehydrated (even flaking), yet oily and acne-prone
- You react to most skincare products you try (in rashes, more breakouts, etc)
For acne sufferers, disruption of skin barrier is often caused by:
- Overuse of anti-acne topicals and exfoliants
- Stripping face washes
- Irritating natural ingredients
- A skincare routine that uses too many actives and products (more than your skin barrier can tolerate)
There is a lot of evidence that surfactants (emulsifiers) widely used in face washes and face creams contribute to disturbing the skin’s barrier function.
Despite the research-based evidence, however, most skincare products recommended for acne fail to address the skin barrier.
Not just that, they are often very disruptive to the skin barrier!
To start healing your skin, it is CRUCIAL to eliminate irritating skincare products and practices. Get the extensive list for FREE below!
Much love and skin healing,
Sara
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