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acne-safe non-comedogenic makeup

The more acne we have, the more we want to conceal them with makeup. This can be tricky when you are trying to get clear skin, though.

Choosing non-comedogenic makeup, safe to use on acne and acne-prone skin is an important step towards clear skin. Especially if you are using makeup on a daily basis!

One common misconception is that ‘green’ beauty brands are better for acne-prone skin.

It’s fantastic that we have many non-toxic makeup options now, but there are still many ingredients in them (either synthetic, but non-toxic or natural ones) that can clog the pores and cause acne.

To avoid clogging your pores with makeup, pick loose mineral powders with absolutely minimal ingredients that are not comedogenic or irritating to the skin. Regardless of whether they are natural, non-toxic, man-made, or a pure product of mother nature.

But not to worry, we’ll go over each of those ingredients in this post, helping you choose the right non-comedogenic makeup for you.

WHY COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENTS MESS UP YOUR SKIN

Comedogenic ingredients in makeup, even the ‘green’ or natural makeup, can clog your pores, and set the stage for acne. Once a pore is clogged, the sebum and dead skin cells accumulate more easily, creating a more visible plug (comedo).

Clogged pores -> accumulation of sebum + dead skin cells -> comedones (bumpy skin)

Not only that, now the inside of the pore is an anaerobic environment, meaning it lacks oxygen. This is, unfortunately, a perfect breeding ground for the acne bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes), which is usually a normal resident on your face.

It multiplies and causes acne once the pore is clogged, so we want to avoid anything that might clog your skin to clear up acne in the long term.

COMEDOGENIC VS. ACNEGENIC

There is a difference between comedogenic and acnegenic. Comedogenic substances usually clog the pores over a longer period of time (days, weeks, or even several months), and you often can’t easily trace what caused your acne.

Acnegenic substances cause acne virtually overnight and inflame your skin, so it’s relatively easy to figure out that the makeup caused them.

Most of the time, comedogenic ingredients in makeup will ‘work their magic’ on your skin for months until you are suddenly left with bumpy skin (comedones) or red, inflamed acne.

HOW MUCH OF A COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENT IS ENOUGH TO CAUSE BREAKOUTS?

However, all those comedogenic labels also have to be taken with a grain of salt.

It matters how much of the comedogenic ingredient is actually in the product. If there is very little of it (compared to other, non-comedogenic ones), you might not have any problem with it.

Usually, the ingredients are listed in the descending order with regard to the amount used. The first 5-8 ingredients generally make up the bulk of the product, and if there is a comedogenic ingredient in there, I wouldn’t use the product.

Ingredients listed after the preservatives, like vitamin E, are probably used in very small amounts (about 1%), so they might not cause any problems, even if labeled comedogenic.

All that said, if you have very sensitive and acne-prone skin (like me!), I would avoid anything that could make acne worse, especially if you currently have active acne. Also, having regular makeup-free days, whenever you can, will be better for your skin that the best makeup out there.

MY SEARCH FOR THE ACNE-SAFE & NON-COMEDOGENIC MAKEUP

After a lot of trial and error, today I use ONLY loose mineral powder as my foundation (which I don’t wear every day) and have been doing so for about 12 years now.

I just find liquid foundations to be inherently more pore-clogging.

They require more ingredients, more preservatives, stabilizers and other ingredients that ensure the foundation doesn’t go bad, many of which can be clogging the skin.

When I first started to use mineral makeup, Bare Minerals was probably the only one around (their Original version of the mineral makeup powder). I quickly realized that the coverage was great and easily buildable (to my surprise), and I saw no signs of irritation. It also didn’t feel like I was suffocating my skin as with other, mostly liquid foundations.

Finally, something I could use to cover up the blemishes, and not worry about new ones!

However, after a while, I bought the (then newly released) Matte version, which sounded like a good idea, because I was so desperate to reduce the oiliness of my skin.

Related: How To Get Rid Of Oily Skin Naturally – 5 Action Steps

What I quickly realized was that this wasn’t working as good. A new ingredient in the formulation, lauroyl lysine, was likely the culprit. In fact, not long after, many users reported the same, and I decided to stick to the original formula or replace it with another brand that had the same ingredients.

Surprisingly enough, I didn’t have issues with bismuth oxychloride, which is present in the Original version. However, I avoid it today just out of precaution. Plus, there are some very lovely brands with better formulations anyway!

INGREDIENTS IN MINERAL MAKEUP I AVOID (APPLIES TO THE ‘GREEN’ BRANDS, TOO)

I personally choose to use only ‘green’ beauty brands for my makeup, as I see no need to apply toxic chemicals on my face, considering that some of them can get absorbed into the bloodstream. Luckily, there are so many high-performing non-toxic makeup options today!

To ensure that even natural, non-toxic loose mineral makeup doesn’t break me out, here are some of the most common ingredients I always avoid (they can be present in both loose mineral powders and liquid formulations):

NON-TOXIC, YET COMEDOGENIC INGREDIENTS

  • Algae or plankton extract (red algae, spirulina,…)
  • Any kind of seaweed or its extract (seaweed extract, carrageenan, kelp,… )
  • Benzoic Acid (could be toxic, we are not sure)
  • Beeswax
  • Butyl Stearate
  • Capric acid
  • Capric/caprylic triglycerides (slightly comedogenic, you might not have any problem with it)
  • Cetearyl alcohol (slightly comedogenic)
  • Cocoa butter
  • Coconut butter
  • Coconut oil & other comedogenic oils not suitable for acne-prone skin including olive oil, avocado oil, and wheat germ oil
  • Glyceryl Stearate SE
  • Lauric acid
  • Isocetyl Stearate
  • Isopropyl Isostearate
  • Isopropyl Myristate
  • Isopropyl Palmitate
  • Octyl Isopalmitate
  • Sulfated jojoba oil (not regular jojoba oil)
  • Shea butter (not comedogenic for me personally, but it is for some people)
  • Sulfated castor oil (not regular castor oil, although it may be comedogenic, too)
  • Sodium Chloride

For more comedogenic ingredients present in both powder and liquid foundations, check the list here.

IRRITATING INGREDIENTS

Bismuth oxychloride

This substance is manufactured by combining bismuth, a by-product of lead and copper metal refining, with chloride and water. It is often found in powder makeup (like BareMinerals).

Bismuth Oxychloride has a unique crystalline structure, making its crystals sharp, so they can get stuck in the pores and irritate sensitive skin. This can cause redness, itching, and small red bumps right after application or even aggravate rosacea.

It’s used in cosmetics because it has a distinct shimmery appearance that gives that ‘dewy’ look to the skin, but it can also accentuate fine lines and wrinkles. All in all, no thank you!

Lauroyl Lysine

A skin conditioning ingredient, derived from coconut oil, that also improves the product texture. It functions as a skin-softening and hair-conditioning agent. As I said earlier, this ingredient made me break out, so I avoid it.

Silicones

Silicones give products great coverage that doesn’t settle into lines or pores, making the skin feel silky. They are supposed to create a ‘breathable barrier’ between the skin and the environment and be completely non-comedogenic.

Still, real people’s experiences don’t always seem to agree, and I have personally found it breaks out my skin, perhaps because they are quite difficult to wash off the skin. Silicones can also enhance the penetration of other substances, which could be irritating as well.

They may be toxic (rating of 3 on SkinDeep) and there are concerns about the effects of silicones on the environment, particularly marine life because they are non-degradable.

How to recognize silicones in your products? Look for these ingredients, ending with:

-Cone: Dimethicone and cyclomethicone are particularly common. You would probably be surprised by how many ‘green’ beauty brands still use dimethicone.

-Conol: dimethiconol.

-Silane: bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, triethoxycaprylylsilane, triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer.

-Siloxane: cyclopentasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, siloxane.

OIL ABSORBING INGREDIENTS (DRYING TO MOST SKIN TYPES)

Talc

Dehydrating to most skin types, which may lead to irritation and clogged pores. Some brands use talc as an inexpensive filler and absorbent.

Any irritation to the skin might be that first inflammatory trigger that causes an increase in an inflammatory cytokine IL-1alpha. This clogs the pores because it increases hyperkeratinization (when the dead skin cells stick together and clog the pore).

Silica

Acts as an absorbent, provides coverage, and often is used as an anti-caking agent. Certain forms of silica can improve an even distribution of pigments in cosmetics.

It is mildly abrasive, so some people find it irritating. It can cause the skin to feel drier than normal, which can be pretty pore clogging and is the reason why I generally avoid it. Silica particles can also enhance the absorption of other ingredients, which is something I don’t like either.

Kaolin

Generally used to absorb oil, with a mattifying effect. This can be great if you have oily skin, but I would avoid it if your skin tends to be dry, flaky or dehydrated.

Boron Nitride

Often used as an alternative to bismuth oxychloride. It absorbs oil, provides a nice feel and a sheen. It absorbs excess oil from your skin, so again, great if you struggle with oily skin (even helpful!). I usually avoid it because it dries out my skin, leading to flakiness and irritation.

Cornstarch

Cornstarch (Zea Mays) is a silky and powdery starch obtained from the dried center of the corn kernel. Cornstarch acts an absorbent. It is sometimes used in cosmetics instead of talc because it absorbs more. However, it cakes easier.

Cornstarch is also a thickening agent and can decrease greasiness and improve the feel of a product. In addition, when it turns moist, it can promote bacterial growth in pores (hello, acne!). Products with rice powder work better for acne-prone skin.

NANOPARTICLES

These are minerals ground into tiny particles so small they can be absorbed into the skin and enter the bloodstream, leading to health problems, including lung cancer. Not to be confused with micronized ingredients, which are larger than nanoparticles.

Micronized minerals are found in most mineral makeup products and appear to be safe to use. Many ‘green’ brands do not use nano-sized particles any more, although this is not always stated on their website, so you have to contact them directly.

For example, Everyday Minerals has stated in a direct inquiry that:

We do not use micronized or nano-particles. Our products are actually vegan based, free of nanotechnology, carmine, dimethicone, fragrance, animal by-products, bismuth oxychloride, silicone and lake dyes.

BASIC FORMULA OF NON-COMEDOGENIC MINERAL MAKEUP I CHOOSE

  • Zinc Oxide
  • Titanium Dioxide
  • Mica (some people may be sensitive to it, too!)
  • Iron Oxides

Any combination of the above – or even just two or three of them usually work well and will (most likely) not clog your pores or irritate your skin. Remember, the more ingredients, the more chance something will do just that!

Still, so many brands, big or small, ‘green’ or not, can use ingredients that your skin is better without. No way of telling until you look at the ingredient list. Also, two products from the same company might be completely different when it comes to how comedogenic they are.

NON-COMEDOGENIC & ACNE-SAFE FOUNDATIONS FOR EVERYDAY USE

Below are a few brands I have personally used and loved that generally work very well for acne prone skin (you can also try finding other brands with very similar ingredients):

Alima Pure Satin Matte Foundation (great line of products, many of which are fine to use on acne, too)

BareMinerals ORIGINAL Powder Foundation – a widely available option that is very safe for acne prone skin (just like Alima Pure)

100% Pure 2nd Skin Liquid Foundation – this is the ONLY liquid foundation I have found so far that doesn’t break me out and I LOVE it! The base is squalane, which is great for acne-prone skin. I am shade 4.

I hope this post helped you to make better makeup choices for your skin!

In radiant skin health,

Sara

Questions! Which makeup brands do you use? Let me know in the comments below!

*Some of the above links are affiliate links. Thank you for your support!

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About Sara

Hi there! My name is Sara. I am a molecular biologist who has spent 15 years figuring out the perfect skin care for sensitive, acne-prone skin and now I want to teach you all about it!